Nepal boasts one of the best walking trails on earth. That’s why I am very much drawn to it and it had been my dream to trek up its world famous Himalayan range. So, when my friend Leow called and asked if I was interested in going to Nepal – trekking! I jumped on the bandwagon because I have missed many opportunities, and I was not about to miss another one.
Our aim was to trek up to Annapurna Base Camp at 4,095m in the Annapurna Region, located on the Central part of Nepal. About two-third of the trekkers in Nepal visit the Annapurna Region; as the area is easily accessible, plenty of hotels and lodges on the hill and more importantly the trek offers good scenery.
A friend of mine and her husband had been to various parts of the mountains in Nepal. We met up with them one day to find out more about trekking there so as to better prepare ourselves.
When we met them, we told them of our intention. There were four of us – Leow and the wife, Alice; Joyce and me. As the husband was telling us about his experience, he ‘surveyed’ the three ladies. He gave us the ‘you sure you want to go, very tough you know’ look. He told us that it could be very tough and many people were often overcome by high altitude sickness. He recounted some of his personal experience. I was shaken by the ‘look’, and the remarks. Leow could sense it and on the way back he told me not to worry, ‘Well, I was there last year, though we did not reach as high as our target for this trip, I know how it is like trekking there. What is important is to train hard to build up our physical strength and at the same time be mentally prepared as well.’
His positive words and encouragement put me back to perspective. I went back for training, more determined than ever. Unfortunately one week before departure, while training at Batu Cave, I felt nausea and threw up after three rounds. It was very unusual. It could be due to ‘nerves’ and anxiety as the departure date drew near. All these days of training and preparation seemed to be evaporating into thin air. Fortunately, I felt better afterwards and left for the trip.
20081004
Kathmandu – the First Impression
We left on 8 November by Thai Airways. Six of us altogether – Leow and wife, Alice; Susan, Joyce, Ming (my nephew) and I. It was Leow and Alice’s second trip to Nepal and first for the rest.
We arrived at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport at about 1.00pm. Our guide, Krishna Prasad of Mother-Land was at the airport to receive us. The airport appeared to be chaotic. Outside the terminal building, we were mobbed by a crowd of enthusiastic hotel touts, taxi drivers and kids who were ever so willing to lend the tourists a helping hand (at a fee of course).
We spent the afternoon exploring the city of Kathmandu while Krishna went to have our trekking permits done.
Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal. The streets here are like a maze. Some buildings seem to have been built haphazardly while some are in squalid and dilapidated conditions. Roads are generally short and narrow and it takes a bit of nerves and skill to drive in the city of Kathmandu. There are many reckless drivers around and they are very fond of honking. In fact as one writer of a guidebook has aptly put it, ‘Nepali drivers use their horns more than their brakes’. But, do not be appalled and put off by the condition in Kathmandu, for Nepal has much to offer than one realises – the warm and friendly people, the beautiful scenery and the mountains.
From Kathmandu, we left for Pokhara the following day by plane. Pokhara, about 200km west of Kathmandu, is a small tourist town. The main streets are dominated by hotels, guesthouses, trekking agencies, shops selling / renting trekking equipment & gears and souvenir shops. The lake, Lake Phewa (or Phewa Tal in Nepali), lying adjacent to the main street and the focal point of Pokhara, is famous for its charm and beauty. From Pokhara, the panoramic view of the Himalayan range is breathtaking and beautiful. The Annapurnas, Machhapuchhare and Manaslu – though draped in snow and seemed so distant – warmed my heart instantly. I knew I had not made a mistake coming. I momentarily forgot about the tough days ahead.
We arrived at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport at about 1.00pm. Our guide, Krishna Prasad of Mother-Land was at the airport to receive us. The airport appeared to be chaotic. Outside the terminal building, we were mobbed by a crowd of enthusiastic hotel touts, taxi drivers and kids who were ever so willing to lend the tourists a helping hand (at a fee of course).
We spent the afternoon exploring the city of Kathmandu while Krishna went to have our trekking permits done.
Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal. The streets here are like a maze. Some buildings seem to have been built haphazardly while some are in squalid and dilapidated conditions. Roads are generally short and narrow and it takes a bit of nerves and skill to drive in the city of Kathmandu. There are many reckless drivers around and they are very fond of honking. In fact as one writer of a guidebook has aptly put it, ‘Nepali drivers use their horns more than their brakes’. But, do not be appalled and put off by the condition in Kathmandu, for Nepal has much to offer than one realises – the warm and friendly people, the beautiful scenery and the mountains.
From Kathmandu, we left for Pokhara the following day by plane. Pokhara, about 200km west of Kathmandu, is a small tourist town. The main streets are dominated by hotels, guesthouses, trekking agencies, shops selling / renting trekking equipment & gears and souvenir shops. The lake, Lake Phewa (or Phewa Tal in Nepali), lying adjacent to the main street and the focal point of Pokhara, is famous for its charm and beauty. From Pokhara, the panoramic view of the Himalayan range is breathtaking and beautiful. The Annapurnas, Machhapuchhare and Manaslu – though draped in snow and seemed so distant – warmed my heart instantly. I knew I had not made a mistake coming. I momentarily forgot about the tough days ahead.
The First Test
On the third day, we took a bus to Naya Pul (New Bridge), a small collection of roadside shacks and about 1-1/2 hour’s drive from Pokhara. The journey was pleasant and scenic though punctuated occasionally by the nerve-breaking emergency braking and the sound of horns.
‘Here we are, this is Naya Pul at 1,000m high. This is the starting point and the destination for the day is Hille at 1,540m. Today, the trail is fairly easy, mostly flat. This is only a warming up exercise. Tomorrow will be the real test. A little bit steep, a little bit tougher.’ It was Krishna briefing us about the trail and the trek. We were soon to find out the Nepalis’ definition of ‘flat’ and ‘a little bit steep’.
We had three porters carrying our luggage all along the trail. Many of these porters are young boys. Despite the tender age, they are very strong. The heavy weight is supported only by a namlo – the strap around the forehead.
Yes, the trail wasn’t that difficult. We trekked alongside the river at certain area and crossed a few suspension bridges. The climb was generally fairly gentle. Along the way, we came across many teahouses – bhattis, and I tasted for the first time, the much talked about mint tea. It was refreshing and thirst-quenching. We had dal bhat (lentil soup with rice), which is often served with tarkari (cooked vegetable) – the most common meal in Nepal – for lunch.
Soon we entered the Annapurna Conservation Area in Birethanti.
The Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) was established in 1986 under the guidance of the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation in an effort to balance the needs of the local population, trekking tourism and the environment. The project encompasses the entire Annapurna range, an area of 7,683sq km. ACAP’s programmes rely on the participation of local people and emphasise environmental education and ‘conservation for development’. Projects include the training of lodge owners, with an emphasis on sanitation, avoidance of deforestation, and cultural pride. ACAP also encourages the use of kerosene for cooking throughout the region.
Trekking in the Annapurna region comes under the jurisdiction of ACAP and all trekkers have to pay the (Rs 1000) conservation charge, in addition to the normal trekking permit fee.
After about four hours of hard labour, we finally reached Hille. Krishna said we all passed the ‘test’ and should have no problem for the real challenge the next day. At Hille, we stayed at Mamta Guest House. The next morning, we left at 7.45. According to Krishna, we were going to have a long day of tough trekking.
Krishna was absolutely right. The climb was tough, unrelenting, and steep. The stone steps seemed endless. Yes, there were 3,318 steps, to be exact. As we were panting, puffing and struggling up the steps, the occasional flat sections came as a great relief to our pounding hearts and weary legs. When our spirit was down and almost out, we were suddenly greeted with surprises when the beautiful Annapurna South (7,273m) and Hiunchuli (6,441m) emerged mysteriously from behind the hills.
‘We will stop here for lunch and from here, it won’t be so difficult, a little bit flat.’ We were at Banthanti (2,250m). The time was 11.45am – four hours of gruelling climb! And did I hear it correctly – not so difficult? I desperately needed the consolation. After two hours of good rest and good food, we were recharged. There was a vast contrast in the trail from the earlier part of the day. While the first part was dominated by stone steps, pasture and cultivated fields, very exposed and hot; the second half of the trail was mainly through the oak and rhododendron forest. The weather was fine and cooling. The sight of sparkling clear streams was most welcoming. It gave us a refreshing feeling. We arrived at Ghorepani (at 2,850m) at about 4.15pm, after about 2-1/2 hours of slow walk.
‘Here we are, this is Naya Pul at 1,000m high. This is the starting point and the destination for the day is Hille at 1,540m. Today, the trail is fairly easy, mostly flat. This is only a warming up exercise. Tomorrow will be the real test. A little bit steep, a little bit tougher.’ It was Krishna briefing us about the trail and the trek. We were soon to find out the Nepalis’ definition of ‘flat’ and ‘a little bit steep’.
We had three porters carrying our luggage all along the trail. Many of these porters are young boys. Despite the tender age, they are very strong. The heavy weight is supported only by a namlo – the strap around the forehead.
Yes, the trail wasn’t that difficult. We trekked alongside the river at certain area and crossed a few suspension bridges. The climb was generally fairly gentle. Along the way, we came across many teahouses – bhattis, and I tasted for the first time, the much talked about mint tea. It was refreshing and thirst-quenching. We had dal bhat (lentil soup with rice), which is often served with tarkari (cooked vegetable) – the most common meal in Nepal – for lunch.
Soon we entered the Annapurna Conservation Area in Birethanti.
The Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) was established in 1986 under the guidance of the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation in an effort to balance the needs of the local population, trekking tourism and the environment. The project encompasses the entire Annapurna range, an area of 7,683sq km. ACAP’s programmes rely on the participation of local people and emphasise environmental education and ‘conservation for development’. Projects include the training of lodge owners, with an emphasis on sanitation, avoidance of deforestation, and cultural pride. ACAP also encourages the use of kerosene for cooking throughout the region.
Trekking in the Annapurna region comes under the jurisdiction of ACAP and all trekkers have to pay the (Rs 1000) conservation charge, in addition to the normal trekking permit fee.
After about four hours of hard labour, we finally reached Hille. Krishna said we all passed the ‘test’ and should have no problem for the real challenge the next day. At Hille, we stayed at Mamta Guest House. The next morning, we left at 7.45. According to Krishna, we were going to have a long day of tough trekking.
Krishna was absolutely right. The climb was tough, unrelenting, and steep. The stone steps seemed endless. Yes, there were 3,318 steps, to be exact. As we were panting, puffing and struggling up the steps, the occasional flat sections came as a great relief to our pounding hearts and weary legs. When our spirit was down and almost out, we were suddenly greeted with surprises when the beautiful Annapurna South (7,273m) and Hiunchuli (6,441m) emerged mysteriously from behind the hills.
‘We will stop here for lunch and from here, it won’t be so difficult, a little bit flat.’ We were at Banthanti (2,250m). The time was 11.45am – four hours of gruelling climb! And did I hear it correctly – not so difficult? I desperately needed the consolation. After two hours of good rest and good food, we were recharged. There was a vast contrast in the trail from the earlier part of the day. While the first part was dominated by stone steps, pasture and cultivated fields, very exposed and hot; the second half of the trail was mainly through the oak and rhododendron forest. The weather was fine and cooling. The sight of sparkling clear streams was most welcoming. It gave us a refreshing feeling. We arrived at Ghorepani (at 2,850m) at about 4.15pm, after about 2-1/2 hours of slow walk.
Feeling Down and Out
It was probably due to over exertion. I was not feeling well soon after I arrived in Ghorepani. I felt dizzy and nauseous. I retired to the room soon after dinner, oblivious of the surroundings. The night was cold and uncomfortable. I had trouble sleeping. I tossed and turned with a heavy head. I tried counting ‘sheep’ hoping that it would help. But, alas, all I had was stone steps and more stone steps! I felt that ‘it is the end of my journey here’.
The agenda for the following day was to wake up at four in the morning, leave at 4.30am for the summit of Poon Hill (at 3,210m) to catch the spectacular sunrise; back to the lodge, have breakfast, then head for Tadapani at 2,630m.
I decided not to go to Poon Hill. Instead, I stayed back to catch up with some sleep and also to conserve my energy as I did not know what lay ahead. The group left as planned at the scheduled time.
In the state of drowsiness, I heard the commotion outside my room. ‘It must be them,’ I thought to myself. Yes, they were back. I could sense the excitement in their voice.
Ming came to the room to ask how I was feeling. However, I was all too eager to find out how the climb was and asked, ‘So how was the trek? How’s Poon Hill like? Beautiful?’
‘Tough, tough, tough!’ Came the reply, ‘But very beautiful,’ he continued.
Ming and the rest recounted and enacted their experience. The details were so vivid that I could visualise and imagine how tough and how beautiful it must be. I felt as if I was with them up at Poon Hill. However, I had no regret not going. The few extra hours of rest did a lot of good, both physically and in spirit. It made me feel much better. I was back on track and raring to go.
The agenda for the following day was to wake up at four in the morning, leave at 4.30am for the summit of Poon Hill (at 3,210m) to catch the spectacular sunrise; back to the lodge, have breakfast, then head for Tadapani at 2,630m.
I decided not to go to Poon Hill. Instead, I stayed back to catch up with some sleep and also to conserve my energy as I did not know what lay ahead. The group left as planned at the scheduled time.
In the state of drowsiness, I heard the commotion outside my room. ‘It must be them,’ I thought to myself. Yes, they were back. I could sense the excitement in their voice.
Ming came to the room to ask how I was feeling. However, I was all too eager to find out how the climb was and asked, ‘So how was the trek? How’s Poon Hill like? Beautiful?’
‘Tough, tough, tough!’ Came the reply, ‘But very beautiful,’ he continued.
Ming and the rest recounted and enacted their experience. The details were so vivid that I could visualise and imagine how tough and how beautiful it must be. I felt as if I was with them up at Poon Hill. However, I had no regret not going. The few extra hours of rest did a lot of good, both physically and in spirit. It made me feel much better. I was back on track and raring to go.
Up, Up and Finally MBC
From Ghorepani, we went on to Tadapani (2,540m), then to Chhomrong (at 2,040m), Dovan (at 2,630m) before reaching Machhapuchhare Base Camp (MBC) at 3,700m. The trail was either steep ascent or descent, interspersed with some gentler slope and occasional flat sections. From lowland villages, we traversed through terraced fields of maize, potatoes and rice; from rhododendron and bamboo forests to valleys with barren mountains in the backdrop; from high mountain ridges down to the river valley. We also crossed countless suspension bridges. The beautiful and stunning waterfalls here and there broke the rhythm of the sometimes long and monotonous trail.
From Ghorepani, we ascended along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3,030m. It was dubbed ‘Poon Hill II’ because according to Ming and others, the view is similar to the one from Poon Hill. From here, it was more climbing, with lots of ‘ups and downs’ before descending steeply to a stream then climbed again through forests and finally, we were at Tadapani. Not a very tough trek I would say.
Tadapani means ‘far water’. The village water supply is a long distance below the village. Before the water pipe was constructed, it took porters more than half an hour to fetch a load of water. That was how the place got its name, we were told.
The trail from Tadapani to Chhomrong was dominated by downhill track with a 2-1/2-hour of walk in the river valley and some uphill. We arrived at 3.30pm at Mountain View Hotel. It was another of ‘a relatively easy’ day.
We spent our evening at the terrace area admiring the beautiful scenery while slowly sipping and enjoying the much awaited mint tea and Nepalese tea. The cool crisp evening breeze made the day all the more pleasant. As we all excitedly recounted and reflected on our journey thus far, we saw the sun slowing setting off in the distance and the temperature started to drop.
The sunset view here (and similarly at Tadapani) was most breathtaking and stunning. No superlative could justifiably describe the magnificent scene. As I admired the snow-capped mountains being bathed in the glow of the sunset, I then understood why trekkers the world over return to Nepal again and again!
Chhomrong, at 2,040m, is the highest permanent settlement in the valley. Here one can capture a good view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare (6,997m).
According to our guide, Krishna, Machhapuchhare is also known as ‘Fish Tail’ because of its resemblance to a fish tail. He also told us that nobody had ever successfully reached the peak, the last being Wilfred Noyce and David Cox in 1957 when they were within 50m of its summit. Since then, the government prohibited further climbing on the mountain.
After two days of relatively easy trek, our endurance and fitness were put to test again. It was generally an uphill ‘battle’ most of the time, all the way to MBC. While some of the trails were rocky, or muddy, we also encountered a few avalanche tracks and paths and some landslide areas.
The day might be long; the journey, tough and rough, but we were always ‘compensated’ or ‘rewarded’ with beautiful scenery. All along the way, the scenery was spectacular and stupendous. As we were gasping for air, we could not help but stopped to admire the picturesque view of the surroundings. Here is what one guidebook says about trekking in Nepal, ‘Each step provides new and intriguing viewpoints’. That was exactly how I felt as I trekked.
We arrived at MBC at bout 2.30pm after a six-hour trek. It was very cold up here. Since we were early and the sky was still bright, we took the opportunity to explore the surrounding area. There were a few groups of campers around; some were getting ready their gears for the climb up some mountain peaks nearby the following day.
At such high altitude, we were grateful that we could still have good and substantial food such as chicken for dinner. Susan wondered if chicken could survive at such high altitude or they were transported up from lower region, so she asked Krishna where the chicken came from. Krishna, unwittingly said, ‘It comes from the egg.’ Isn’t that obvious? Well, it could be due to thin air, short of oxygen supply. But then it didn’t matter. With good food, good company and beautiful scenery, ‘forgive and forget’ was easy.
We stayed at a place called ‘Dream Lodge’. ‘Perhaps I will have sweet dream tonight,’ I mumbled to myself when I saw the name.
From Ghorepani, we ascended along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3,030m. It was dubbed ‘Poon Hill II’ because according to Ming and others, the view is similar to the one from Poon Hill. From here, it was more climbing, with lots of ‘ups and downs’ before descending steeply to a stream then climbed again through forests and finally, we were at Tadapani. Not a very tough trek I would say.
Tadapani means ‘far water’. The village water supply is a long distance below the village. Before the water pipe was constructed, it took porters more than half an hour to fetch a load of water. That was how the place got its name, we were told.
The trail from Tadapani to Chhomrong was dominated by downhill track with a 2-1/2-hour of walk in the river valley and some uphill. We arrived at 3.30pm at Mountain View Hotel. It was another of ‘a relatively easy’ day.
We spent our evening at the terrace area admiring the beautiful scenery while slowly sipping and enjoying the much awaited mint tea and Nepalese tea. The cool crisp evening breeze made the day all the more pleasant. As we all excitedly recounted and reflected on our journey thus far, we saw the sun slowing setting off in the distance and the temperature started to drop.
The sunset view here (and similarly at Tadapani) was most breathtaking and stunning. No superlative could justifiably describe the magnificent scene. As I admired the snow-capped mountains being bathed in the glow of the sunset, I then understood why trekkers the world over return to Nepal again and again!
Chhomrong, at 2,040m, is the highest permanent settlement in the valley. Here one can capture a good view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare (6,997m).
According to our guide, Krishna, Machhapuchhare is also known as ‘Fish Tail’ because of its resemblance to a fish tail. He also told us that nobody had ever successfully reached the peak, the last being Wilfred Noyce and David Cox in 1957 when they were within 50m of its summit. Since then, the government prohibited further climbing on the mountain.
After two days of relatively easy trek, our endurance and fitness were put to test again. It was generally an uphill ‘battle’ most of the time, all the way to MBC. While some of the trails were rocky, or muddy, we also encountered a few avalanche tracks and paths and some landslide areas.
The day might be long; the journey, tough and rough, but we were always ‘compensated’ or ‘rewarded’ with beautiful scenery. All along the way, the scenery was spectacular and stupendous. As we were gasping for air, we could not help but stopped to admire the picturesque view of the surroundings. Here is what one guidebook says about trekking in Nepal, ‘Each step provides new and intriguing viewpoints’. That was exactly how I felt as I trekked.
We arrived at MBC at bout 2.30pm after a six-hour trek. It was very cold up here. Since we were early and the sky was still bright, we took the opportunity to explore the surrounding area. There were a few groups of campers around; some were getting ready their gears for the climb up some mountain peaks nearby the following day.
At such high altitude, we were grateful that we could still have good and substantial food such as chicken for dinner. Susan wondered if chicken could survive at such high altitude or they were transported up from lower region, so she asked Krishna where the chicken came from. Krishna, unwittingly said, ‘It comes from the egg.’ Isn’t that obvious? Well, it could be due to thin air, short of oxygen supply. But then it didn’t matter. With good food, good company and beautiful scenery, ‘forgive and forget’ was easy.
We stayed at a place called ‘Dream Lodge’. ‘Perhaps I will have sweet dream tonight,’ I mumbled to myself when I saw the name.
Final Assault
After a good night rest in MBC, we were ready for our final assault up to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), at 4,095m. We were all very excited about the last leg of our mission. We arose early with great expectation. We left at seven. It was a 2-hour pleasant, gentle stroll along the river through the tranquil meadows. The weather was superb – clear sky, breezy and not too cold. Snow could be seen sporadically along the way. Yes, we made it after six days of hard trekking. We gazed in awe at the surrounding peaks standing majestically over 7,000m high. I felt dwarfed and insignificant standing in front of these peaks which appeared to be so near yet so far. I was speechless. I was glad that I was not swayed by the ‘discouraging look’ from my friend few months ago; otherwise, I wouldn’t be standing at where I was standing.
I was happy that we had all made it. At that moment, another ABC came to my mind, Ais Batu Campor. (Shredded ice mixed with ingredients such as red beans, nuts, sweet corns, jelly, etc. with syrup added.) I thought it would be refreshing to have a bowl of ABC complementing our achievement. Oh! What a wishful thinking?
After a short stay at ABC, we started to head back to MBC to pick up our luggage before heading for Dovan. We arrived in Dovan at 5.00pm. Descending dominated most part of the trek and it was extremely taxing on our legs, especially the knees. That day, we trekked for about eight hours.
‘Oh! Another day of downhill-dominated, knee-cracking trek!’ I exclaimed as we left Dovan Guest House at 7.30. What made it even worse was that the track was either stony or sandy which impeded the walk. We stopped over at Sinuwa for lunch before proceeding to Chhomrong, stepping on thousands of cobblestone-steps. The last stretch towards Chhomrong was a punishing uphill battle. At the end of the day, our legs were really painful, and the muscles were aching all over.
The weather had been really good to us. All these days, it had always been sunny with clear blue sky except today. It was drizzling, fortunately only slightly. Whatever, the slight drizzle was not going to dampen our mood as we looked forward to going back to civilisation.
We arrived in Chhomrong at 1.50pm. By then, the drizzle had stopped. We went after our favourite place at the terrace area. The porters were busy helping to serve us tea while we took out our snacks. At the far distance in the direction where we had just come from, I saw some tiny dots which resemble houses and asked Krishna where the place was. ‘You came from there this morning,’ Krishna replied. My eyes went wide, my jaw almost dropped! ‘Are you kidding, Krishna? We could not have possibly walked that far,’ I asked in total disbelief. As we trekked, indeed we did not realise the distance we actually covered, how we traversed from mountain ridges down to river valleys, from one hill crossed over to another and how the terrain looked like. As the true picture ‘unfolded’ in front of me, I could only gasp with, ‘Wow! This is unbelievable!’
From Chhomrong, instead of going to Tadapani, we took a left turn heading towards Landruk (at 1,650m). On the way, we stopped at Jhinu Danda. There is a hot spring nearby. We were told that it would be a 15-minute walk down and it would take half an hour to walk back up. While some of us decided to venture for a ‘hot dip’, to relax and relieve the pains and the aches, others felt that the cozy teahouse nearby was just too tempting and inviting to give it a miss. The thought of more steps up and down put me off as we were told that more steep steps were awaiting us ahead, and so I decided to join the second group.
After almost four hours of downhill trek, we finally arrived in Landruk at 3.00pm.
That evening, Krishna and Leow went to the village to buy two chickens. Leow was the chief cook for the evening. The dish was delicious. We asked him, ‘How did you manage to come up with such nice, delicious dish without all the familiar seasoning and at an unfamiliar kitchen?’ ‘Well, I added a little bit of everything that I could see and are within my reach,’ Leow replied. The kitchen was very dim and I was glad that we had asked the question only at the end of the dinner. Anyway, whatever ‘a little bit of everything’ constituted, it was definitely a sumptuous dinner and all of us enjoyed it very much. It was like a ‘long overdue’ reward to us. As the journey was nearing the end, we took the opportunity to have a simple bash.
The following day, we headed for Phedi.
I was happy that we had all made it. At that moment, another ABC came to my mind, Ais Batu Campor. (Shredded ice mixed with ingredients such as red beans, nuts, sweet corns, jelly, etc. with syrup added.) I thought it would be refreshing to have a bowl of ABC complementing our achievement. Oh! What a wishful thinking?
After a short stay at ABC, we started to head back to MBC to pick up our luggage before heading for Dovan. We arrived in Dovan at 5.00pm. Descending dominated most part of the trek and it was extremely taxing on our legs, especially the knees. That day, we trekked for about eight hours.
‘Oh! Another day of downhill-dominated, knee-cracking trek!’ I exclaimed as we left Dovan Guest House at 7.30. What made it even worse was that the track was either stony or sandy which impeded the walk. We stopped over at Sinuwa for lunch before proceeding to Chhomrong, stepping on thousands of cobblestone-steps. The last stretch towards Chhomrong was a punishing uphill battle. At the end of the day, our legs were really painful, and the muscles were aching all over.
The weather had been really good to us. All these days, it had always been sunny with clear blue sky except today. It was drizzling, fortunately only slightly. Whatever, the slight drizzle was not going to dampen our mood as we looked forward to going back to civilisation.
We arrived in Chhomrong at 1.50pm. By then, the drizzle had stopped. We went after our favourite place at the terrace area. The porters were busy helping to serve us tea while we took out our snacks. At the far distance in the direction where we had just come from, I saw some tiny dots which resemble houses and asked Krishna where the place was. ‘You came from there this morning,’ Krishna replied. My eyes went wide, my jaw almost dropped! ‘Are you kidding, Krishna? We could not have possibly walked that far,’ I asked in total disbelief. As we trekked, indeed we did not realise the distance we actually covered, how we traversed from mountain ridges down to river valleys, from one hill crossed over to another and how the terrain looked like. As the true picture ‘unfolded’ in front of me, I could only gasp with, ‘Wow! This is unbelievable!’
From Chhomrong, instead of going to Tadapani, we took a left turn heading towards Landruk (at 1,650m). On the way, we stopped at Jhinu Danda. There is a hot spring nearby. We were told that it would be a 15-minute walk down and it would take half an hour to walk back up. While some of us decided to venture for a ‘hot dip’, to relax and relieve the pains and the aches, others felt that the cozy teahouse nearby was just too tempting and inviting to give it a miss. The thought of more steps up and down put me off as we were told that more steep steps were awaiting us ahead, and so I decided to join the second group.
After almost four hours of downhill trek, we finally arrived in Landruk at 3.00pm.
That evening, Krishna and Leow went to the village to buy two chickens. Leow was the chief cook for the evening. The dish was delicious. We asked him, ‘How did you manage to come up with such nice, delicious dish without all the familiar seasoning and at an unfamiliar kitchen?’ ‘Well, I added a little bit of everything that I could see and are within my reach,’ Leow replied. The kitchen was very dim and I was glad that we had asked the question only at the end of the dinner. Anyway, whatever ‘a little bit of everything’ constituted, it was definitely a sumptuous dinner and all of us enjoyed it very much. It was like a ‘long overdue’ reward to us. As the journey was nearing the end, we took the opportunity to have a simple bash.
The following day, we headed for Phedi.
Back to Civilisation
After all these days, I was almost immune to the cobblestone-steps. I began to tread the steps as if I had been walking on them all my life. From Landruk, we went up to 2,150m, in Deurali, another good vista point of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. On the way, we came across a school. We could see the children happily scampering around within the school compound. In fact, along the track, we met some school children either on the way to or from school. We were told that some of these children have to walk for one to two hours through the mountain / jungle to get to the schools. Indeed, it is not easy to be students in Nepal. Looking at them, I was reminded how fortunate we are and how often we have taken it for granted?
From Deurali, it was all the way descent to Pothana, where we stopped for lunch before more descending again all the way to Phedi at 1,180m.
When we reached Phedi, I heaved a sigh of relief, not as if the trip had been such a torture to us, I was just feeling overwhelmed by it. Recalling what happened just a few days earlier in Ghorepani when I was feeling sick, I could not believe that ‘we have really come to the end of the journey’.
From here we took taxi back to Pokhara. The next day, we took a bus back to Kathmandu. On the way back to Kathmandu, Leow, Alice, Susan and Ming went for white water rafting while Joyce and I continued our journey as I am not a water sports buff. We spent the last day in Kathmandu shopping and visiting the Hindu and Buddhist temples.
From Deurali, it was all the way descent to Pothana, where we stopped for lunch before more descending again all the way to Phedi at 1,180m.
When we reached Phedi, I heaved a sigh of relief, not as if the trip had been such a torture to us, I was just feeling overwhelmed by it. Recalling what happened just a few days earlier in Ghorepani when I was feeling sick, I could not believe that ‘we have really come to the end of the journey’.
From here we took taxi back to Pokhara. The next day, we took a bus back to Kathmandu. On the way back to Kathmandu, Leow, Alice, Susan and Ming went for white water rafting while Joyce and I continued our journey as I am not a water sports buff. We spent the last day in Kathmandu shopping and visiting the Hindu and Buddhist temples.
Reflection on the Experience
In all, we trekked for ten days and each day we trekked for four to eight hours traversing between 10 and 20km depending on the altitude, the nature and the steepness of the track. From the starting point at Naya Pul to ABC, we ascended a total of 3,095m with a lot of ‘ups and downs’ in between. It was indeed an exciting and challenging experience.
The trail
As we trekked along, donkeys and cows would often come into our way. It is therefore not surprising that we also encountered a lot of donkey and cow dung along the path. Donkeys are the main means of transport on the mountains. Everything – from food to television to construction materials – is either transported by donkeys or by porters (both men and women) up and down the mountains.
The people
Nepalis are very warm and friendly. Whenever we went, we were greeted with ‘namaste’ (Hello, how are you?). Most Nepalis speak English (though some rudimentary), even very young children. Along the trail, we met many kids who would ask, ‘Have you got sweets / pens?’ Despite the young age, they are very open and friendly.
Nepalis also like to sing and dance. The evening at Tadapani was the most unforgettable one. Our three porters, Rashem, Narayan and Rajandra, together with Krishna entertained us with their local folk songs and dances. The singing and dancing were accompanied by the two-headed drum called madal. Some of our members danced along with them. One of the most popular local songs is ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’.
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa ma bhanjyang
Resham pheeree ree . . .
(My heart is fluttering like silk in the wind
I cannot decide whether to fly or sit on the hilltop ...)
We enjoyed the performance very much and had a lot of fun that evening.
Lodges and amenities (see note 1)
The interior of most of the lodges are made of wood, and mind you, thin wood with small gaps, sometimes. In the dead silent of the night, one can hear the people in the neighbouring rooms snoring, coughing, clearing the throats etc.
Electricity is a scarce commodity in Nepal. In most lodges up on the mountains, there is no electricity supply. The kitchens and dining rooms are normally lighted up with kerosene lamps. As for the rooms, we often had to make do with candles.
Toilets are often located away from the building proper. It can therefore be a hassle at nights, especially if the weather is cold.
Arh, then there is this problem of hot water. Most of us are so pampered that we can’t seem to take shower without hot water. Although most lodges advertised ‘24-hour hot water available here’, unfortunately, it was not the case most of the time. (Water is heated using solar system.) Very often, by the time it came to our turn, only cold freezing water was available, sometimes just trickling! We had to learn the ‘art’ of taking shower under such circumstance to survive!
But to me, these are only small inconvenience and a small price to pay. Trekking in Nepal is indeed an enriching experience. Having spent more than ten days up on the mountains, I have come to appreciate and love the country even more.
No doubt Nepal is a poor country, but it is rich in scenery and unique, fascinating culture. A potpourri of ethnic groups (and sub-groups) who speak over 70 languages and dialects make this country more the unique and interesting. People are poor, but they are rich in spirit and are contented with what they have (or what they do not have).
I remember reading it somewhere that says, ‘Nepal is a kind of country that lingers in your dream long after you leave the place’. The statement cannot be more true.
As the plane left the tarmac, I could hear the song ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’ reverberating in my ears. Looking out of the window, I said to myself, ‘What a beautiful country! I will be back someday.’
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa . . .
(Note 1: the information was based on the experience in 1998, things could have changed)
The trail
As we trekked along, donkeys and cows would often come into our way. It is therefore not surprising that we also encountered a lot of donkey and cow dung along the path. Donkeys are the main means of transport on the mountains. Everything – from food to television to construction materials – is either transported by donkeys or by porters (both men and women) up and down the mountains.
The people
Nepalis are very warm and friendly. Whenever we went, we were greeted with ‘namaste’ (Hello, how are you?). Most Nepalis speak English (though some rudimentary), even very young children. Along the trail, we met many kids who would ask, ‘Have you got sweets / pens?’ Despite the young age, they are very open and friendly.
Nepalis also like to sing and dance. The evening at Tadapani was the most unforgettable one. Our three porters, Rashem, Narayan and Rajandra, together with Krishna entertained us with their local folk songs and dances. The singing and dancing were accompanied by the two-headed drum called madal. Some of our members danced along with them. One of the most popular local songs is ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’.
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa ma bhanjyang
Resham pheeree ree . . .
(My heart is fluttering like silk in the wind
I cannot decide whether to fly or sit on the hilltop ...)
We enjoyed the performance very much and had a lot of fun that evening.
Lodges and amenities (see note 1)
The interior of most of the lodges are made of wood, and mind you, thin wood with small gaps, sometimes. In the dead silent of the night, one can hear the people in the neighbouring rooms snoring, coughing, clearing the throats etc.
Electricity is a scarce commodity in Nepal. In most lodges up on the mountains, there is no electricity supply. The kitchens and dining rooms are normally lighted up with kerosene lamps. As for the rooms, we often had to make do with candles.
Toilets are often located away from the building proper. It can therefore be a hassle at nights, especially if the weather is cold.
Arh, then there is this problem of hot water. Most of us are so pampered that we can’t seem to take shower without hot water. Although most lodges advertised ‘24-hour hot water available here’, unfortunately, it was not the case most of the time. (Water is heated using solar system.) Very often, by the time it came to our turn, only cold freezing water was available, sometimes just trickling! We had to learn the ‘art’ of taking shower under such circumstance to survive!
But to me, these are only small inconvenience and a small price to pay. Trekking in Nepal is indeed an enriching experience. Having spent more than ten days up on the mountains, I have come to appreciate and love the country even more.
No doubt Nepal is a poor country, but it is rich in scenery and unique, fascinating culture. A potpourri of ethnic groups (and sub-groups) who speak over 70 languages and dialects make this country more the unique and interesting. People are poor, but they are rich in spirit and are contented with what they have (or what they do not have).
I remember reading it somewhere that says, ‘Nepal is a kind of country that lingers in your dream long after you leave the place’. The statement cannot be more true.
As the plane left the tarmac, I could hear the song ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’ reverberating in my ears. Looking out of the window, I said to myself, ‘What a beautiful country! I will be back someday.’
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa . . .
(Note 1: the information was based on the experience in 1998, things could have changed)
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