The First Test

On the third day, we took a bus to Naya Pul (New Bridge), a small collection of roadside shacks and about 1-1/2 hour’s drive from Pokhara. The journey was pleasant and scenic though punctuated occasionally by the nerve-breaking emergency braking and the sound of horns.

‘Here we are, this is Naya Pul at 1,000m high. This is the starting point and the destination for the day is Hille at 1,540m. Today, the trail is fairly easy, mostly flat. This is only a warming up exercise. Tomorrow will be the real test. A little bit steep, a little bit tougher.’ It was Krishna briefing us about the trail and the trek. We were soon to find out the Nepalis’ definition of ‘flat’ and ‘a little bit steep’.

We had three porters carrying our luggage all along the trail. Many of these porters are young boys. Despite the tender age, they are very strong. The heavy weight is supported only by a namlo – the strap around the forehead.

Yes, the trail wasn’t that difficult. We trekked alongside the river at certain area and crossed a few suspension bridges. The climb was generally fairly gentle. Along the way, we came across many teahouses – bhattis, and I tasted for the first time, the much talked about mint tea. It was refreshing and thirst-quenching. We had dal bhat (lentil soup with rice), which is often served with tarkari (cooked vegetable) – the most common meal in Nepal – for lunch.

Soon we entered the Annapurna Conservation Area in Birethanti.

The Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) was established in 1986 under the guidance of the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation in an effort to balance the needs of the local population, trekking tourism and the environment. The project encompasses the entire Annapurna range, an area of 7,683sq km. ACAP’s programmes rely on the participation of local people and emphasise environmental education and ‘conservation for development’. Projects include the training of lodge owners, with an emphasis on sanitation, avoidance of deforestation, and cultural pride. ACAP also encourages the use of kerosene for cooking throughout the region.

Trekking in the Annapurna region comes under the jurisdiction of ACAP and all trekkers have to pay the (Rs 1000) conservation charge, in addition to the normal trekking permit fee.

After about four hours of hard labour, we finally reached Hille. Krishna said we all passed the ‘test’ and should have no problem for the real challenge the next day. At Hille, we stayed at Mamta Guest House. The next morning, we left at 7.45. According to Krishna, we were going to have a long day of tough trekking.

Krishna was absolutely right. The climb was tough, unrelenting, and steep. The stone steps seemed endless. Yes, there were 3,318 steps, to be exact. As we were panting, puffing and struggling up the steps, the occasional flat sections came as a great relief to our pounding hearts and weary legs. When our spirit was down and almost out, we were suddenly greeted with surprises when the beautiful Annapurna South (7,273m) and Hiunchuli (6,441m) emerged mysteriously from behind the hills.

‘We will stop here for lunch and from here, it won’t be so difficult, a little bit flat.’ We were at Banthanti (2,250m). The time was 11.45am – four hours of gruelling climb! And did I hear it correctly – not so difficult? I desperately needed the consolation. After two hours of good rest and good food, we were recharged. There was a vast contrast in the trail from the earlier part of the day. While the first part was dominated by stone steps, pasture and cultivated fields, very exposed and hot; the second half of the trail was mainly through the oak and rhododendron forest. The weather was fine and cooling. The sight of sparkling clear streams was most welcoming. It gave us a refreshing feeling. We arrived at Ghorepani (at 2,850m) at about 4.15pm, after about 2-1/2 hours of slow walk.