In all, we trekked for ten days and each day we trekked for four to eight hours traversing between 10 and 20km depending on the altitude, the nature and the steepness of the track. From the starting point at Naya Pul to ABC, we ascended a total of 3,095m with a lot of ‘ups and downs’ in between. It was indeed an exciting and challenging experience.
The trail
As we trekked along, donkeys and cows would often come into our way. It is therefore not surprising that we also encountered a lot of donkey and cow dung along the path. Donkeys are the main means of transport on the mountains. Everything – from food to television to construction materials – is either transported by donkeys or by porters (both men and women) up and down the mountains.
The people
Nepalis are very warm and friendly. Whenever we went, we were greeted with ‘namaste’ (Hello, how are you?). Most Nepalis speak English (though some rudimentary), even very young children. Along the trail, we met many kids who would ask, ‘Have you got sweets / pens?’ Despite the young age, they are very open and friendly.
Nepalis also like to sing and dance. The evening at Tadapani was the most unforgettable one. Our three porters, Rashem, Narayan and Rajandra, together with Krishna entertained us with their local folk songs and dances. The singing and dancing were accompanied by the two-headed drum called madal. Some of our members danced along with them. One of the most popular local songs is ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’.
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa ma bhanjyang
Resham pheeree ree . . .
(My heart is fluttering like silk in the wind
I cannot decide whether to fly or sit on the hilltop ...)
We enjoyed the performance very much and had a lot of fun that evening.
Lodges and amenities (see note 1)
The interior of most of the lodges are made of wood, and mind you, thin wood with small gaps, sometimes. In the dead silent of the night, one can hear the people in the neighbouring rooms snoring, coughing, clearing the throats etc.
Electricity is a scarce commodity in Nepal. In most lodges up on the mountains, there is no electricity supply. The kitchens and dining rooms are normally lighted up with kerosene lamps. As for the rooms, we often had to make do with candles.
Toilets are often located away from the building proper. It can therefore be a hassle at nights, especially if the weather is cold.
Arh, then there is this problem of hot water. Most of us are so pampered that we can’t seem to take shower without hot water. Although most lodges advertised ‘24-hour hot water available here’, unfortunately, it was not the case most of the time. (Water is heated using solar system.) Very often, by the time it came to our turn, only cold freezing water was available, sometimes just trickling! We had to learn the ‘art’ of taking shower under such circumstance to survive!
But to me, these are only small inconvenience and a small price to pay. Trekking in Nepal is indeed an enriching experience. Having spent more than ten days up on the mountains, I have come to appreciate and love the country even more.
No doubt Nepal is a poor country, but it is rich in scenery and unique, fascinating culture. A potpourri of ethnic groups (and sub-groups) who speak over 70 languages and dialects make this country more the unique and interesting. People are poor, but they are rich in spirit and are contented with what they have (or what they do not have).
I remember reading it somewhere that says, ‘Nepal is a kind of country that lingers in your dream long after you leave the place’. The statement cannot be more true.
As the plane left the tarmac, I could hear the song ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’ reverberating in my ears. Looking out of the window, I said to myself, ‘What a beautiful country! I will be back someday.’
Resham pheeree ree, Resham pheeree ree
Udeyra jaunkee dandaa . . .
(Note 1: the information was based on the experience in 1998, things could have changed)
20081004
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