From Ghorepani, we went on to Tadapani (2,540m), then to Chhomrong (at 2,040m), Dovan (at 2,630m) before reaching Machhapuchhare Base Camp (MBC) at 3,700m. The trail was either steep ascent or descent, interspersed with some gentler slope and occasional flat sections. From lowland villages, we traversed through terraced fields of maize, potatoes and rice; from rhododendron and bamboo forests to valleys with barren mountains in the backdrop; from high mountain ridges down to the river valley. We also crossed countless suspension bridges. The beautiful and stunning waterfalls here and there broke the rhythm of the sometimes long and monotonous trail.
From Ghorepani, we ascended along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3,030m. It was dubbed ‘Poon Hill II’ because according to Ming and others, the view is similar to the one from Poon Hill. From here, it was more climbing, with lots of ‘ups and downs’ before descending steeply to a stream then climbed again through forests and finally, we were at Tadapani. Not a very tough trek I would say.
Tadapani means ‘far water’. The village water supply is a long distance below the village. Before the water pipe was constructed, it took porters more than half an hour to fetch a load of water. That was how the place got its name, we were told.
The trail from Tadapani to Chhomrong was dominated by downhill track with a 2-1/2-hour of walk in the river valley and some uphill. We arrived at 3.30pm at Mountain View Hotel. It was another of ‘a relatively easy’ day.
We spent our evening at the terrace area admiring the beautiful scenery while slowly sipping and enjoying the much awaited mint tea and Nepalese tea. The cool crisp evening breeze made the day all the more pleasant. As we all excitedly recounted and reflected on our journey thus far, we saw the sun slowing setting off in the distance and the temperature started to drop.
The sunset view here (and similarly at Tadapani) was most breathtaking and stunning. No superlative could justifiably describe the magnificent scene. As I admired the snow-capped mountains being bathed in the glow of the sunset, I then understood why trekkers the world over return to Nepal again and again!
Chhomrong, at 2,040m, is the highest permanent settlement in the valley. Here one can capture a good view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare (6,997m).
According to our guide, Krishna, Machhapuchhare is also known as ‘Fish Tail’ because of its resemblance to a fish tail. He also told us that nobody had ever successfully reached the peak, the last being Wilfred Noyce and David Cox in 1957 when they were within 50m of its summit. Since then, the government prohibited further climbing on the mountain.
After two days of relatively easy trek, our endurance and fitness were put to test again. It was generally an uphill ‘battle’ most of the time, all the way to MBC. While some of the trails were rocky, or muddy, we also encountered a few avalanche tracks and paths and some landslide areas.
The day might be long; the journey, tough and rough, but we were always ‘compensated’ or ‘rewarded’ with beautiful scenery. All along the way, the scenery was spectacular and stupendous. As we were gasping for air, we could not help but stopped to admire the picturesque view of the surroundings. Here is what one guidebook says about trekking in Nepal, ‘Each step provides new and intriguing viewpoints’. That was exactly how I felt as I trekked.
We arrived at MBC at bout 2.30pm after a six-hour trek. It was very cold up here. Since we were early and the sky was still bright, we took the opportunity to explore the surrounding area. There were a few groups of campers around; some were getting ready their gears for the climb up some mountain peaks nearby the following day.
At such high altitude, we were grateful that we could still have good and substantial food such as chicken for dinner. Susan wondered if chicken could survive at such high altitude or they were transported up from lower region, so she asked Krishna where the chicken came from. Krishna, unwittingly said, ‘It comes from the egg.’ Isn’t that obvious? Well, it could be due to thin air, short of oxygen supply. But then it didn’t matter. With good food, good company and beautiful scenery, ‘forgive and forget’ was easy.
We stayed at a place called ‘Dream Lodge’. ‘Perhaps I will have sweet dream tonight,’ I mumbled to myself when I saw the name.
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